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:: Official Wheel & Tire Guide / Q&A ::

Discussion in 'Suspension, Brakes, Wheels & Tires' started by CLUTCHONE, Oct 15, 2009.


    CLUTCHONE Active Member

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    Apr 27, 2006
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    Offset explained:
    Increasing offset (higher number) will result in your wheel becoming more inset and move towards your car.
    Decreasing your offset (lower number) will make your wheels more flush with your fender.

    There are two ways that offset can affect the actual build of a wheel.
    Sometimes it will increase the mass on the back of the face of the wheels
    (like adding a spacer, which is strongly discouraged unless they're properly installed like H&R or kics)
    or the face of the wheel goes closer to the middle (if decreased from a positive offset)
    thus giving a larger lip.
    Not all wheels and manufacturers are the same and depends on not only width but manufacturer and particular wheel.
    These charts can be usually found on a manufacturer's website.


    Camber Explained:
    Camber is the angle that your wheel creates with a line perpendicular with the ground.
    Negative camber will make the top of your wheel sit inside your fender more and will give you more room to have more offset or have wider tires.
    When I had LESS camber (smaller negative number) my wheels sat a lot more flush than when I had more camber (larger negative number)
    as to where I now want more aggressive wheels (both wider and lower offset).
    Camber has a negative cogitation with camber wear.
    If you properly rotate your tires they should not decrease the life of your tires too badly.
    Toe is what you want to make sure you dont have.


    Lug nut information:
    Aftermarket lugs are made for aftermarket wheels. Not only for "wheel safety",
    because nobody wants your rotas, but because the seating on the inside of the bolt is correct.
    Stock wheels have a ball seat while aftermarket wheels have a conical seat.
    Dont put aftermarket lugs on your stock wheels,



    Tires explained:
    Tire Size Viewed On Sidewall
    P215/45R17 87V M+S

    -P = Type of tire
    -215= width of the tire across the tread in millimeters
    -45= Aspect ratio of the sidewall compared to the width
    -R = Radial construction
    -17= Diameter of the rim in inches
    -87 = Tire's load rating
    -V = Tire's speed rating
    -M+S = Tire is suitable for all-season driving

    Speed Ratings
    M 81 mph (130 km/h)
    N 87 mph (140km/h) Temporary Spare Tires
    P 93 mph (150 km/h)
    Q 99 mph (160 km/h) Studless & Studdable Winter Tires
    R 106 mph (170 km/h) H.D. Light Truck Tires
    S 112 mph (180 km/h) Family Sedans & Vans
    T 118 mph (190 km/h) Family Sedans & Vans
    U 124 mph (200 km/h)
    H 130 mph (210 km/h) Sport Sedans & Coupes
    V 149 mph (240 km/h) Sport Sedans, Coupes & Sports Cars
    DOT = US Dept. of Transportation
    OB = Manuf. and Plant Code
    XO - Tire Size and Code
    C60 - Tire Manuf. Symbols and Keys
    2206 = Production Date (ie: week/year, 22nd week of 2006)

    Tire Rotation
    (6,000 - 7,000 Miles or Every Other Oil Change)

    About Tire Pressure
    According to fueleconomy studies, maintaining the proper inflation pressure of your tires can improve your fuel economy by three percent,
    but even a small reduction in pressure can have a significant effect on your fuel economy.
    Having a tire under-inflated by as little as one pound can reduce your fuel economy by 0.3 percent.
    Under-inflated tires wear faster and are more susceptible to failure.

    Time Frame
    Even a tire in good condition will lose air pressure over time.
    Tire pressure is measured in "pounds per square inch" which is abbreviated as psi.
    Typically a loss of one psi per month is normal, but an older tire or one mounted on a damaged rim could lose pressure at a faster rate.
    For a tire with a recommended inflation pressure of 30 psi, a one pound per month loss will leave it under-inflated by 20 percent after six months.
    When striking a road hazard a tire that is under-inflated by 20 percent is more prone to blow-outs or sidewall damage.
    When hitting pot holes or bridge expansion joints the greater flex allowed by the sidewall of an under-inflated tire can also lead to serious wheel damage.

    Under-inflated tires generate more friction which can be detrimental in two primary ways.
    Friction generates heat and excessive heat can damage the structure of a tire over time.
    Friction also increases rolling resistance which will reduce fuel economy.
    Overinflated tires will wear more quickly and unevenly.
    An overinflated tire will transmit more road noise and vibration into the cockpit resulting in a more uncomfortable ride.

    Checking your tire pressure every time you fill your tank or at least once a month is the most effective way to ensure that you maintain the correct pressure.
    The chart with your vehicle's correct pressure settings is typically located in either the glove compartment, the owner's manual, inside the fuel door or on the driver's door jam.
    The pressure indicated on the tire's sidewall is the maximum allowable pressure for that tire and is not usually the pressure recommended by the vehicle's manufacturer for normal driving conditions.
    Do not rely on the tire pressure gauge built into a service station's air compressor.
    Frequent drops or misuse often makes them unreliable and inaccurate.
    Invest in a tire pressure gauge that you can keep in the glove compartment.
    A simple pencil shaped gauge is adequate, but a dial type is generally more accurate and easier to read.

    Expert Insight :wink:
    If you use an oil change facility that includes a tire pressure check as part of their service recheck the pressure after they have completed the job.
    It is not uncommon for them to automatically inflate your tires to the maximum air pressure listed on the tire's sidewall instead of locating the manufacturer's recommended pressure.
    When you check your tire's air pressure do a visual inspection to see if your tires are wearing unevenly or if there is any apparent damage to them.

    Some Good Info huh :poke:
    ai214.photobucket.com_albums_cc312_atitagain_23_Picture9.png ai214.photobucket.com_albums_cc312_atitagain_23_camber_animation.gif ai214.photobucket.com_albums_cc312_atitagain_23_toe_animation.gif ai214.photobucket.com_albums_cc312_atitagain_23_caster_angle.gif ai214.photobucket.com_albums_cc312_atitagain_23_acorn_mag_ball_seats.jpg awww.tirerack.com_images_tires_yokohama_yo_advan_neo_ad08_ci2_l.jpg
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  2. Deibidosan

    Deibidosan Active Member

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    Jul 21, 2006
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    Great info! :thumbup:
  3. Daniel

    Daniel Active Member

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    Apr 26, 2006
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    Great thread. I am a big fan when it comes to proper alignment, corner balancing and suspension tech.
  4. gsmith281

    gsmith281 New Member

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    Apr 28, 2017
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    Thank you for all this info! This has really helped me a lot. I'll bookmark this link so I can read it later, too. :)
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