my writeup was done with a 1997 Honda Civic, but the fundamentals of changing a fuel filter should be about the same for any make/model vehicle.:thumbup: i do not take any responsibilty for any damage caused to your vehicle, or yourself, when you perform work on your own vehicle. please remeber that safety is of the utmost importance, and should always be the first priority. this writeup deals with open gasoline lines, and fuel, so under NO CIRCUMSTANCES should an open flame be present during the completion of this project. NO SMOKING within at least 50 to 100 feet of the open gas lines:thumbsup: also make sure that you do this project in a well ventilated area because of the gas fumes. this writeup is done only to be an aide when working on your own car.:thumbup: on with the writeup! TOOLS NEEDED: ratchet 10mm, 14mm, 17mm sockets ratchet extensions 9/16" wrench adjustable wrench shop rags work gloves(so as to not get spilled fuel on your hands) work light flathead screwdriver new fuel filter/washers hex wrenches of various sizes telescopic magnet pen (comes in handy when you drop a bolt/nut in teh engine bay) Step One first thing you want to do is disconnect the negative battery cable..use your 10mm socket and ratchet to loosen the nut on the batt terminal. ...like so... Step Two pop open the fuel door to gain access to the gas cap, and open it up to relieve the pressure from the fuel system... Step Three next, take your 14mm socket and loosen the two bolts on each shock tower to remove the strut tower brace...if you do not have a strut tower brace, skip this step. also at this time. disconnect the necessary sensors for the intake system. Step Four now that the strut brace is outta the way, grab your hex tool, find the correct size and loosen the hose clamps on the aftermarket air intake tube. on my K&N system, the tube is also supported by another bracket, which is secured by a 10mm bolt near the starter...so if your system also uses something like this, use the ratchet extension along with a 10mm socket..the bolt to be taken out is in the "V" where the blue and black hoses meet after that, pull off the intake tubing... Step Five now it's time to get at the fuel filter...grab a 17mm socket, and loosen the banjo bolt on the top...have a couple rags handy to catch the fuel that will spill out.:thumbup: also, when you get the banjo bolt out, be sure to catch the washers...Honda recommends using new ones each filter change, but my old ones looked fine...and the ones that came with the new filter were made out of a flimsy copper material.:ermm: take the fuel line off the fuel filter, wrap it in a rag, and place out of the way for now. Step Six now, grab the 10mm socket again, and loosen the bolt which secures the fuel filter clamp...the bolt is located near the fire wall...a small ratchet extension should be able to reach this. here is the bracket uninstalled, bolt to secure the bracket goes on the left side of the bracket... Step Seven After you pull off the filter bracket, look under the fuel filter and you will see another nut...for the nut connected to the fuel hard line, use a 9/16" wrench...place the adjustable wrench onto the bottom of the fuel filter...start twisting the fuel filter nuts off...you may have to work to unscrew these. after you get the fuel filter off, it should look like this...also, make sure you wrap the fuel filter in rags to catch all the draining fuel. Step Eight Grab the new fuel filter...for my car, the OEM replacement from FRAM was G7599...screw the new filter on...on both the top and bottom Installation is pretty much the reverse of removal...once everything is on and the negative battery cable re-connected, screw on the gas cap, tighten all bolts/nuts, re-connect all sensors and start the vehicle...let the vehicle run for about 5 to 10 minutes...check for leaks, CELs, etc...if everything looks fine you are done, WEWT!!:thumbup: hope this helps you out, now go change them fuel filters
thanks Chad! and yes, that's why i did mine...well that, and i'll be driving for about 18+ hours soon...it definitely helped the motor in a positive way, and i don't have the bogging problem anymore either. i think when the car gets to hawaii, i'll pull out the injectors and clean them:thumbup:
i hope fram fuel filters are nothing like their oil filters... nice write up ive never changed one, but ive done most of those steps before when removing the integra's motor
My car has a bogging problem too... hmmm? I think I'll change my fuel filter this weekend, I didn't know it could be the reason for the bogging Thank for the write up dude! great job with the pics too!
thanks! i was expecting the fram fuel filter to suck balls too...but i was pleasantly surprised...my fuel mileage was beyond great during the drive to st louis...and it seemed to get better and better the more i drove i dunno why. ...but, compared to what my previous fuel mileage was, i was greatly satisfied...and i had no bogging problems anymore either. i was in illinois for a couple days kevin, i shoulda tried to hit ya up...but i was way out in granite city/pontoon beach...my car's on its way to hawaii now, and i'll be there by tomorrow night.:woot:
werd:thumbup: i am glad i did this before i shipped my car...saved me some money on gas during the drive to the shipping port. :woot:
