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How To: Wire/Re-Wire your OEM oil pressure sender

Discussion in 'Engine & Drivetrain' started by 97-ferio, Dec 10, 2006.

  1. 97-ferio

    97-ferio Active Member

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    Jul 11, 2006
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    Okay, as anyone that has done an engine swap before knows...keeping all of your sensors and such intact when swapping out old motors and swapping in the new one is kind of a pain. Such was the case with my car...my old Y7 hydrolocked, but since time and money were kinda short at the time, i opted for another Y7. when a friend and i yanked out the old motor, we forgot to fully disconnect the oil press. sender wire from the sender, so it snapped off it's plug. Hence the need for this project...as with all DIY projects, remember that your safety, and the safety of others around you is paramount. If you don't feel confident working on your own car, then don't try this project and just take it to a professional.

    O.kay, on to the writeup:

    Tools Needed:

    16 or 18 guage wire (about 6" to a foot should be plenty)
    1 wire connector (to connect the wire to the sender)
    1 butt connector
    wire clipper
    needlenose pliers
    wire stripper
    electrical tape
    10mm socket w/ ratchet
    a good worklight
    floor jack w/ jackstand(s)

    Level of Difficulty:

    I'd say very easy to moderate, depending on your skill level.:) It helps if you have a buddy to accompany you on this project, to shine a light somewhere, or aid you in connecting wires in tight spots. Otherwise, you should be just fine by yourself.

    Amount of time:

    it took me about 20 minutes to finish this...maybe allow yourself about an hour or two...i kinda did mine pretty quick cause i already knew what i had to do.

    Step One

    As with most DIY car projects, disconnect your battery...this is the only place where your 10mm socket comes into play in this writeup.:woot:

    Step Two

    Unless you are in a garage w/a lift (which I would highly recommend when doing this project) grab your floor jack and jackstand(s). i only used one jackstand as i only needed one side of the car lifted to fit my fat ass under the front end of the car.

    Step Three

    Now comes the fun part...crawl under your car and try to find your oil pressure sender...most oil press. senders are usually located someplace near the oil filter. for the D16Y7 it is located right above the oil filter. You may find it easier to locate the sender from above, rather than from under the car...all of the spaces you need to work in are tight so be careful when trying to find the sender.

    in case you don't know what it looks like, the oil pressure sender is the thing between the mouse and the plastic connector thing on my table below...in the pic you see--> oil press. sender, plastic cover for the connector, new connector...upper left hand of pic you see--> the old rubber boot that goes over your sender, and the old metal connector which came outta the plastic cover piece:
    you can buy a new sender from your local honda dealer for pretty cheap.:)

    here is my sender, looking down through a hole in my intake manifold:

    Step Four

    now, find your wire for your oil press. sender. on my Y7 it is a yellow wire w/a red stripe down its center... as stated above, mine snapped off of its plastic connector. normally your wire would be connected to the sender w/ some type of connector which is protected in a piece of plastic...all of this is covered by a rubber boot...pull the boot off of your sender, and pull the plastic piece out of the top of the boot to find your connector. pop the plastic piece open, and pull out the metal wire connector inside w/ your needlenose pliers.

    here's what my wire looks like:

    here it is from under the car, sitting just above where the oil filter is.


    Step Five

    now what you need to do is take your piece of 16 or 18 guage wire and strip both ends. using a new connector, crimp one side of the wire into the new connector. for my connector i used a round type connector that was covered in blue plastic (big on one side and small on the other), as it was the same size as the old one and fit onto the tip of the sender snugly. all i had to do was melt the plastic off of the new connector, and pull the connector outta the plastic. (sorry, i'm bad with names for electrical connectors, lol:) )

    Step Six

    alright, now take your piece of wire, and put the other stripped end into a butt connector, and crimp it into place. be sure to pull slightly on both ends on the connectors you just put on to make sure that the wire isn't loose on either end and won't come off when installing.

    here's what my new wire looks like:

    ^^the metal connector for the other end is sitting next to the piece of the rubber boot in the lower part of this pic.:) the plastic piece i was talking about is in the upper right hand of the pic.

    Step Seven

    okay, now take the end of your wire that has the butt connector on it, and place the oil press. sender wire into the butt connector, crimping it into place. check to make sure the sender wire isn't loose.

    Step Eight

    now, for the hard part. most of the spaces you need to get to for this project are pretty tight...what you need to do is find a way to put the metal connector on your sender wire onto the sender itself. it may, or may not slide right onto the sender. i found it easier to do this by crawling back under the car and putting the wire into place on the sender. in my case, i have to twist the conector onto the sender. make sure your wire is on the sender all the way.

    Step Nine

    You don't have to do this, but I wrapped some electrical tape around my connections to seal everything up and help insulate them from the engine heat. Now, re-connect your battery, and start your car. Make sure you have no CELs and that everything is in good working order.

    That's it! You're done, now go have a beer or a smoke and relax. :)

    Thanks for reading, and if you have any questions, please feel free to ask me.:)

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  2. BoostSpyke

    BoostSpyke New Member

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    Apr 29, 2006
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    nice writeup, and HAMP filter.

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